MUSCAT

At the present time – it is natural to honor Muscat the capital of Oman. However it is important to know, that the city achieved this honor only about 200 years ago. Responsible for this new era was the 3 Imam of the present A l-Bu-Said Dynasty – “Sayyid Ahmad bin Saeed”. In the long history of Oman the country was mainly ruled out of the so called “Interior” – nevertheless, Muscat could establish in the meantime it’s name as an important Trading Harbor. The Portuguese Occupation of Oman – aimed to control the Sea Trading Routes to India – lasted 150 years – and used Muscat as their main base, before the Omanis themselves expelled the Intruders in 1650 AD.

In 1840 AD the proclamation of “Sultanate of Muscat and Zanzibar” – made Muscat rich, famous and important. However the city-by-the-Sea could not gain full control over the tribes in the Interior – and always used to be a small place with only several hundred inhabitants. After the death of  “Said the Great” in the year of 1856, the Sultanate split from Zanzibar – which affected the city severely. At the same time the introduction of the Steamships from Europe left the Omani Sailors and Traders behind and the city of Muscat lost it’s glory.

MUTTRAH - Muttrah is one of the many districts of Muscat City and is famous for it’s vivid Fishmarket, the Harbour, the Corniche and the Arabian Souq.

The Fish Market offer an interesting glimps on the immense variety of the fish in the Omani waters, as well as fresh vegetables, fruits and meat. It also offers Sandwiches and soft drinks – and is open only until 13:00 pm.

Stroll then along the Corniche – where you might see the private yacht of His Majesty and many typical Arabian Dhows. Also particularly interesting is the House fronts of some old residential buildings – which are still inhabited by the Lawatiyah Sect – famous for their trading abilities.

The Traffic light will indicate the entrance to the Muttrah Souq, which is not made-up for tourists- but part of Muscat’s local life. Here you will find all sorts of household items, as well as garments, gold jewelry, Silverware, gifts of any kind, antiques, frankincense, burners and charcoal, also interesting might be the local Money Changers, which usually offer a better rate than the banks.

At the far end of the Corniche you will see the Majestic “Muttrah Fort” – one of the remnants of the Portuguese era. Passing this fort you will – after approximately 2 km  arrive at Riyam Park.

OLD TOWN OF MUSCAT - This is the district which represents Muscat’s History in all the books. And it is actually only one small part of what is called Muscat today. Here you find the two famous Fortresses, the Sultan’s Palace, Government buildings and offices, the Omani-French-Museum. Many of the mentioned buildings have been renovated to keep the charm and the beauty of old times alive.

CITYWALL - The wall itself has been completely renovated –and doesn’t really look like the original. However the location and size still match the earlier days – where not long ago (1960) the big Entrance Doors were closed at Sunset and paraffin lights were used to light up the night. If you picture the wall and it’s entrance gates as a whole you will realize, that it has not lost it’s original meaning. Today you see three Gates: Kabir Gate; Saghir Gate; and Muthaib Gate

MUSCAT HARBOUR - To the rear of the Palace – you will see the “Horseshoe” shaped old harbour of Muscat. The famous harbour, which served for decades as a protective supply point for the big sailing vessels on their way from Europe to India. Providing fresh water from the nearby mountain and hardly visible from the seaside. Take a closer look on the opposite rocks and you will find more than 350 names of ships carved in stone – ships that laid anchor in Muscat between 1870 and 1930.

FORT JALALI - The Fort you are facing while standing at the harbour – used to be a prison. Sultan Qaboos has changed it to a private Museum. Unfortunately it has not been opened yet for public visitors.

FORT MIRANI - This impressive Fort is to the right over your shoulder – and accommodates the watchmen of the “Royal Guard”. Should you be interested to take pictures of the picturesque soldiers – please do not forget, that it is mandatory for you to ask for their permission. Both forts make it quite clear, how difficult it must have been for any aggressor to capture or simply attack those buildings, which where protecting the busy trading port of Muscat.

SULTAN’S PALACE - This Palace is unlike any other Palace you might have seen before Sultan Qaboos has ordered the construction right after his taking over in 1970. Two Indian architects were requested to design a dignified administrative palace and created a Jewel. Take a walk to the left to the rear of the Palace, which will lead you right to the old harbour. Turn your attention as well to the top of the palace – if the Flag is flying, the Sultan is in the Capital Area.

BARKA

Located around 80 km outside Muscat – this small town is however of traditionally big importance to the region of the “Batinah”. This region stretches along the coastline for about 250 km up to Sohar and is called the Garden of Oman, due to it’s fertile soil, big farms and rich agricultural outputs. Barka – or Birka – has it’s own small fortress – built in the late 18 Century by the 3 Imam of the Al Bu Said Dynasty “Hamad Bin Ahmad”. He as well has had established Muscat as his Capital. Today Barka is worth a visit for it’s vivid Fish Market in the morning – it’s small Fort “Bait Na’am” and on Fridays you may usually witness Bullfights, where two animals fight against each other. Please ask your way to the arena – since the places change very often.

NAKHL

The Fortress of Nakhl can be easily seen from the road – since it is built high on a rock. This beautiful location is one of it’s attraction as well as the stunning views over the attached oasis once you are inside- The history goes back to the pre-Islamic era. The fort was destroyed and rebuilt several times and only during the last years of the Yarooba Dynasty – in the first half of the 18^th Century – it achieved importance for the region. Since 1990 the restoration of the fort is completed and is rated to be one of the most interesting forts in Oman.

The village itself – especially the old part of Al-Towarrah – still shows some of the old traditional mud clay houses and we consider it as a must to take a walk through the gardens and plantations – where Mangoes, Dates, Oranges, Lemons, Aloe Vera, Lilies…. are grown

RUSTAQ

The biggest oasis in the area- former centre of power – residence of many Imam’s capital of Oman… the list is long to prove the earlier importance of this city. Today – however Rustaq has lost its rank to Nizwa – which is nowadays considered to be the secret capital of the interior region. But even today the dates of Rustaq and it’s surroundings, are considered to be best in the country.

The massive fort still bears witness to the old times and also here history dates back to the pre-Islamic days. The fort was destroyed and rebuilt several times and gained special importance as the logistic centre in the attempt to expel the Portuguese invaders from Oman in the 17^th Century. It’s present shape is quite different to the original one with every restoration they added another Watchtower – which also represented the power of a capital at that time.

BATINAH

As mentioned already earlier – this area along the coastline is among Muscat – the highest populated district of Oman. About 500,000 people live in all the small villages, which usually spread close to the highway. The Batinah stretches about 250 km – and is between 10 and 25 km wide. Unfortunately it is not possible to see the sea from the road and the landscape does not change dramatically until Sohar. However there are quite profound differences when it comes to local customs, clothes, dialects… The Batinah has the advantage of good water recourses from the close mountains and the people have managed to use this blessing for centuries for extensive agriculture.  You can see the farms lining the road. About 50% of Oman’s Dates and a large variety of other fruits and vegetables are grown here. Even cattle food is produced here and transported 1000 km down south into the Dhofar region, since there is a misbalance of food and cattle.

Another important source of income in the area is the Fishing industry. All along the coastal villages you will find early morning fish markets – showing the rich variety of Oman’s waters. Part of the daily catch will be exported – mainly to neighboring states.

SOHAR

Scientists are convinced that already 3000 years before Christ – Sohar was the shipping harbour of copper, which was mined in the mountains nearby. However the harbour has not been found and there is no real evidence. 2000 years later Roman and Greek writers describe the place of today’s Sohar as an important harbour. During the coming centuries the city grew enormously and expanded to three times of the present size.

One of Sohar’s most well known “celebrities” – is Sindbad. His personal record shows Sohar as his birthplace and later he made his fortune in Baghdad. The destruction of Baghdad in the 10^th century AD had a quite devastating impact on the city and it’s wealth and influence declined step by step. The Persians and the Portuguese had been unwelcome “guests” – both using the Fortress of Sohar for their own purposes. By the time Muscat advanced to the capital of Oman – the harbour of Sohar turned so muddy, that it could not be used anymore. The former harbour can still be seen today. Today, Sohar performs as the capital of the Batinah and is sponsored with different projects and investments from the government.

SOHAR FORT - What makes it special is the Museum inside, which provides an interesting show through the cities history. Before entering the Tower – you can see the remains of an archeological site, which was found while renovating the fort 15 years ago.

After the exhibition – follow the stairs to the rooftop of the Tower – it rewards you with a stunning view over the city.

NIZWA   

CITY HISTORY - Since many centuries – Nizwa is the undisputed spiritual centre and the secret capital of Oman. Ruling powers stretched from here to far distant areas. From 751-1154 the oasis of  Nizwa was Oman’s Capital and after that it remained almost the same at least for the interior mountain region.

Nizwa is the biggest oasis along the sumail Gap and has been always very tempting to possess for the rival tribes in the neighbour-hood since it supplied water, wood, work, etc… This justified the impressive and solid fortification of Nizwa. Additionally the Fortress was home of the ruling Imam Said bin Saif for example started from here Oman’s rebellion against the Portuguese 10 years later his mission was completed.

In the first half of the 19^th century – the power of the ruling tribes of the Interior was cut quite drastically, after Muscat was chosen to be the future ruling capital. Now politics were officially handled from the coast. However Nizwa never lost it’s importance completely and only 40 years ago, Sultan Qaboos had no possibility to mastermind the Interior – the clock ticks also today still differently…

As per the wish of Sultan Qaboos Nizwa is highly subsidised in order to keep its importance and maintain the Heritage. 1994 Oman’s National Day was celebrated in Nizwa – a big award for a city in Oman.

OLD TOWN - Only few meters away from the renovated Fort, Souq and newly plastered roads – you will find yourself in a totally different world. Old facades are visible, small alleys – almost unreal, silent Palm tree plantations where the relaxing sound of water runs through the aflaj channels. The noise and business of the nearby markets has disappeared behind the walls and the silence of the old times welcomes the visitors. Dare to walk these hidden areas, which takes only a few minutes to walk from the Fort.

FORTRESS - The massive Tower of the Fort is overlooking the whole city centre and gives a stunning view from it’s top. The Fort had been built after expelling the Portuguese from Oman. After this victory – the Omanis felt so strong, that they followed the Portuguese overseas and overtook many of their possessions in Indian and Persia. The Fort was partly financed with those loots and completed after 12 years.

The Tower itself is built massively – the lower half consists of solid stone material, where there is one set of stairs is leading you to the top.

Walking up – you pass through 7 beautifully carved doors. From 30 meters above you have a breathtaking view in all directions – especially to the Jebel Akhdar Massive.

The Fort was highly equipped with all necessities to withstand a long term attack – like water-wells, horses-table, storage-room, soldier quarters – as well as sophisticated living quarters for the Imam and his family.

BAHLA

This is a mystical place – crowned with a huge Fortress, which can be easily seen while entering the village. The fort is reconstructed - financed from UNESCO- to preserve the impressive walls. Bahla had been Oman’s capital for many years – it’s most important time was between the 12^th and the 16^th century. Still today the former extension of the town can be seen on the untouched city walls on both sides of the street.

Turn left – just opposite the Fort and visit the old Souq and Market place – many Omanis believe, that the huge Sycomore Tree in the centre of the Market place is bewitched and spreads it’s power over the village. However should you dare to enter the village, and explore the narrow old lanes, which will lead you to the famous pottery. Two families still make their living out of designing and burning clay for Water buckets (to be seen all over the country), Flowerpots etc…

JABREEN

Bil’arub bin Sultan al Yarooba was the 3^rd Imam of the Al Yarooba Dynasty – he ruled the country at the end of the 17^th Century. Under his reign – Jabreen was the capital of Oman. The Palace is a jewel under Oman’s Forts – especially beautiful – the painted ceiling once you are on the first floor..Before you go there – please do not miss the kitchen – and further in the back the Dates Storage Room. The room decorations are rich – and it is well worth to see almost every room, while climbing all the way up to the top of Fort.  This palace has been the gathering centre for artist of the region and also offered a rare Koran School in those times. However the ruler had to face many enemies – finally succeeding him. His tomb can be seen just left of entrance area. The Conference Hall for example was equipped with hiding places – still to be seen.

 

 

WAHIBA SANDS    

This is a clearly shaped and closed Sand Desert – flanked by rich farmland or the blue sea. Its North South expansion is about 180KM, the East West expansion around 80 KM. The northern part of Wahiba is characterized by Sand Dunes, which run from North to South in parallel ways – creating almost mountains and valleys of sand. The dune rises up to 100m. The Southern part of Wahiba is a bit more flat and the dunes does not show this correct order, all due to the winds.

Geologists had found petrified dunes below the sandy surface – the biggest ever found. Additionally quite a surprise, the Sands cover a vast area of natural resources.

Two main tribes share this vast sands – both of then live only partly in their barasti houses with their goats and camels – also take care of farms outside the sands. They are half nomads – moves between the two worlds. Today most of them live close to the edge of the desert in order to supervise their camels’ camp. Wahiba’s camels are famous for their ability to run at the camel races – and some of their owners are proud and rich men today.

SUR        

In former times Sur was the gate to the world ! At least for Oman. The most important harbour and starting point for Caravans – supplying the rest of the country with the rich shiploads from abroad. Especially in those times, where pirates ruled the seas of the Arabian peninsular, trading ships avoided harbours like Ras al Kheima or Dubai. Distributing the goods from Sur took however much more time and effort in those days – and was mainly conducted on camel and donkey backs.

The glorious times of Sur are long over – and the Dhowyard is only a small memory of old rich times and traditions. Boats and Ships have been the main interest for the men of Sur – either by building, fishing or trading. Trading harbours where mostly located in India, Pakistan and as far down to the East African coast.

The main breakdown for the Dhow (Arabian ships) business was the invention of the steamboats, which replaced the sailboat trading with no mercy. Under the new rule of Sultan Qaboos – and the dawn of modern times – new jobs in other areas attracted the locals of Sur. The remaining fishermen preferred the highly subsidized, smaller and faster fiber-glass boats. Today the Dhowyard is mainly busy with orders of Royal Family Members – or few regular replacements of middle size Dhows heading for India and Pakistan.

Sur nevertheless has never really lost it’s beauty, charm and attraction. Even though business has lost it’s roots in Sur – the strong ties of a rich culture and tradition – keeps the sons and daughters of Sur linked with their home. Many rich families own spectacular houses in Sur and use them on weekends and holidays.

1996, the National day was officially celebrated in Sur – causing a lot of beautification activities. Further more the town will benefit from huge investment projects (Fertilizers and Gas) in the neighourhood – which aim to create a new area of prosperity for the region.

DHOWYARD - Located on the creek of Sur, which divides the town into an old and new part. The Dhowyard has a long tradition and history for the town of Sur – which is still running today. However in a much smaller size – in difficult situation it is only covered by high subsides from the government. Although everything seems a little run down – we believe it is worth while to take a closer look. Most important to know, that building a dhow in Sur requires a great deal of knowledge, which has been traditionally passed on from generation to generation. The workers do not work with plans, maps or any sophisticated means. The quality of the wood, which comes mainly from India and Burma – combined with the know how of hundreds of years – eventually provides a beautiful carved dhow. Take a glimpse of a place where time is not counted by days, wood is shaped in old almost forgotten ways and the smell of shark-oil, which finalizes the work – is in the air.

The big Dhow at an exhibition place close to the Dhowyard – has been built around 70 years ago. The Boat type is called “Ghanjah” – and has 300 tons of weight. After the first owner could no longer afford the big dhow – he sold the ship to a Yemeni businessman. Only recently the city of Sur bought the dhow back and is planned to be used as a museum.

SALALAH

Salalah is the modern administrative – as well as the economical center of the South. Salalah is equipped with it'’ own airport, hotel'’ and further to the west -–the harbour of Mina Raysut, big enough to offer anchor places for major international cruise-liners.

Parts of Salalah will remind you more of a tropical place – rather than the south tip of the dry arabian peninsula. Coconut and Papaya trees, as well as extensive banana plantations – and on the sidewalks small shops offer their fresh fruits for small money. Reason for this are the monsoon rainfalls, which strive Salalah and it surroundings between June and September.

The first documentary mentioned harbour of this region dates back to the 1^st century AD – “Moscha” ! During the middle ages todays Salalah succeeded about the importance as a Frankincense port and export of fine arabic horses. In the middle of the 13^th century Dhufar was captured and plundered by a Hormuz fleet and later involved in conflicts with Yemeni tribes. Dhufar was geographically at the end of along line of trading ports to the southern directions and highly profited from the East African trades. This came to a sudden end with the Portuguese invasion to Oman – and the blockade of it’s ports (Beginning of the 16^th century) Muscat/Oman and Aden/Yemen developed rapidly and Dhufar decayed slowly.

PLACES OF INTEREST

AL BALAD - Here one can see the ruins of the ancient city “Dhufar”- located east of the Salalah. The area is completely fenced and unfortunately not easy to access. The necessary keys are with the Ministry of Tourism – ask for the department of National Heritage.

AL HUSN - This is the official Sultan’s Residence in Salalah – inside the town-center, just around the corner of the Frankincense souq. It is only to be seen from outside. The palace is quite modest – and was built in the seventies as a replacement of his father’s palace.

FRANKINCENSE SOUQ - This local market is not very big – but for visitors however interesting. Many small shops line up to sell different items – particularly incense and perfumes. Here you find the real Frankincense, which made Oman so rich and famous in ancient times. The incense differs in quality and price – but sold in small quantities and for very affordable prices. Try as well all the other smells, which are regularly used in every traditional omani house: oud, bouchur, etc… Most of the perfumes are based on oil – the western way of alcohol base is in this climate simply not affordable, because it evaporates too fast.

Please respect the wish of the Jebali Ladies, who are selling in the shops and do not welcome pictures taken of them.

MUSEUM - Very recommendable because it provides good information about History, Culture and Archeology of Oman.

Opening times : SAT-WED – 08:00 – 14:30 hrs/

GOLD SOUQ - In the commercial center of Salalah – at the cross-point of Al Nahda Street and A’Salaam Street. Traditional Arabic and Indian design – big variety of wedding jewelry

TAQA - Although it looks like a small fishing village – Taqa is considered to be the third biggest town in the Dhofar region. On the beach you can still see some of the earlier boat constructions, simply tied with Coconut strips. During the main fish season in winter time you can also watch the fishermen – while drying the Sardines.

In the town center you can visit the local Fort. The Fortress was renovated and newly opened for visitors during the National Celebration in 1993. The rooms are quite small but nicely decorated. It is worth wile to visit this place.

SUMHUMRAM - The key can be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism in Salalah. Please contact the reception of Holiday Inn Hotel – for further help.

It used to be in ancient times – part of the Yemeni kingdom of Hadramaut. Their King ordered in the 2 century AD the construction of Sumhumram.

Khor Rouri is the name of the respective bay – which is today only a sandy area – and a big natural bird sanctuary.

BIN ALI TOMB - Shortly before you rech “Mirbat” – slow down a bit and turn your attention on a signpost to your right, which directs you to “Bin Ali Tomb”. Apart from an interesting cemetery – you will find the shape of the attached mosque very attractive. It is built in a south Yemeni style – topped with onion-shaped roof. Buried here is the holy Sheik Muhammed Ali Al Alawi – a famous muslim figure.

MIRBAT - At the town entrance turn to your right and proceed to the renovated local Fort. From it’s rooftop you have a magnificent view over the old part of town. The houses of the old town center are considered to be the most famous of the region. However they are unfortunately quite run down and only rich imagination will bring back the glory of former times, where this town was an important center of Frankincense trade.

Then turn back to the main road – and Salalah – which is around 60 km away

DHOFAR WEST - Today you will pass the famous Frankincense Trees – but first let’s turn your attention on the graveyard of a popular Muslim and Christian figure:

NABI AYUB - This graveyard is witness of the life of Hiob(/ or Job), who’s extraordinary faith is mentioned in the Christian Bible – as well as in the Muslim Kor’an. You may take pictures in these premises – however please take off your shoes before you enter the small house with the grave inside. Women are kindly requested to wear a head cover – and Men – please do not wear shorts.

In front of the premises – you may see an old Jebali Man – who is considered to be a wise man with the local habitants give him a small tip if you want.

Oman’s Activities

Beach holidays

Historical / cultural tour

 

 

 

 

 

Off road Adventure

Dolphin Observation

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camping in the Desert

Wadi Bashing

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adventure 4x4

Snorkeling